Every day, thousands of people stroll 30 feet above Manhattan’s West Side on a ribbon of wildflowers, birch trees and weathered steel rails. Most of them are enjoying the view. Far fewer realize they’re walking on one of the most unlikely rescue stories in American city planning: a freight railroad that was built to stop people dying in the street, abandoned for a quarter of a century, and very nearly torn down before two neighbors decided it deserved a second life.
The High Line runs for roughly a mile and a half, from Gansevoort Street in the Meatpacking District up through Chelsea to West 34th Street at Hudson Yards. It’s free, it’s open year-round, and it’s best understood if you know what you’re looking at. Here’s the story, section by section, plus the practical tips we give our own guests.
Before the High Line: “Death Avenue” and the West Side Cowboys
In the mid-1800s the New York Central Railroad ran freight trains right down the middle of Tenth and Eleventh Avenues, at street level, hauling meat, milk and produce to the warehouses and piers of the Lower West Side. The trains shared the road with horses, carts, pushcarts and pedestrians, and the results were grim enough that Tenth Avenue earned the nickname “Death Avenue.”
The city’s solution, for decades, was remarkably low-tech. The railroad employed the West Side Cowboys: men on horseback who rode ahead of the locomotives waving red flags (and red lanterns at night) to clear the way. It sounds like something from a Western, but the cowboys were a real fixture of Manhattan street life into the early 1940s, long after the elevated line had started carrying most of the traffic.